UKP&B Sanzinia Caresheet

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Captive bred boids from Rod Foster	Email: rod@pythonsandboas.co.uk

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UK Pythons & Boas Information Sheet
	Common Name:	Madagascar Tree Boa
	Scientific Name:	Sanzinia madagascariensis
	Distribution:	Madagascar
	CITES Listing:	Appendix 1 (04/02/77)

Scientific Name

Firstly let’s deal with the subject of the Madagascar Tree Boas (MTB) scientific name.

Sanzinia madagascariensis madagascariensis; Sanzinia volontony; Boa Mandrita and Sanzinia madagascariensis are the scientific names currently being used to describe the Madagascar Tree Boa.

A 2003 paper by Miguel Vences and Frank Glaw concludes that the Eastern (Green Phase) and the Western (Mandarin Phase) are distinct enough to deserve sub specific classification and possibly reclassification as distinct species in the future.

They propose the ''Green Phase'' to be classified as Sanzinia madagascariensis madagascariensis and the ''Mandarin Phase'' to be classified as Sanzinia madagascariensis volontony.

If you wish to read their paper in its entirety then follow this link >> READ Vences & Glaw Sanzinia and Acrantophis paper<<

The history of the re-classification to the genus Boa can be traced to a paper produced by A.G Kluge - 1991.

If you would like to see what Dr. Marinus S Hoogmoed, Chairman of the CITES Nomenclature Committee had to say in April 2000 then follow this link >>CITES - Dr. Hoogmoed<< but in summary this document proposes the continuation of the Madagascan boids to remain unchanged.

I am in the fortunate position to have many unrelated examples of both phases in my collection and over the years have seen many many more. The 2 ‘phases’ do have some distinct differences but they are confined to primarily colour variations and to a lesser extent adult size.

When D.E.F.R.A in the UK issue me with the CITES article 10 certificates required for MTB's they continue to refer to them as Sanzinia madagascariensis. They do not distinguish between the ''Green Phase'' and the ''Mandarin Phase'' and nor do they subscribe to the reclassification to Boa genus - so for now I will continue referring to my MTB's as Sanzinia madagascariensis.

Status

The Madagascar tree boa is classified as vulnerable (VU A1cd) on the IUCN Red List 2003 and is listed on Appendix I of CITES

Description / Range

Sanzinia are medium size boas and they originate from across Madagascar with the exception of the extreme southwest corner.

There are 2 colour variations or ‘phases’. Prevalent mainly in the eastern half of the range is the green form which tends to be smaller than the mandarin form which occurs in the western side of the range.

As adults the green phase probably not unsurprisingly is usually green. The colouration of the green phase is highly variable. Some individuals are lime green, some dark green, some have vivid white dorsal spots on dark brown saddles some have dull white on reddish saddles and every combination in between. Some have clear belly scales and some in my collection have red belly scales the linking factor is that they exhibit green colouration.

The adult Mandarin phase is always a dark brown green with yellow and cream dorsal markings and dark saddles. I have seen significantly less colour variation in Mandarin specimens than I have in Green phase specimens.

Green Phase

Mandarin Phase

An Arboreal Species ?

You would rightly expect a Tree Boa to be just that, arboreal. The words Tree Boa conjures images in the mind that this is a boa that is similar in habit to an Emerald Tree Boa or Amazon Tree Boa or for that matter a Green Tree Python all of which spend a great majority of their time on perches off the ground. This is not so with the Madagascar Tree Boa, yes they are an arboreal species and climb but they are best described as a ‘’part time’’ arboreal species.

As adults they prefer to spend their days in a hide box at ground level and only come out to night to climb around their perches. I have some adults that used to exhibit this arboreal behavior and as they got older and larger stopped climbing altogether.

As neonates they are certainly more arboreal but again prefer to spend their days in a hide box. So if you only provided them with elaborate perches and nowhere to retreat to and hide in the day you may well find they do not thrive as well.

Captive Husbandry

Vivarium / Housing Requirements

This species as sub adults (1.5 to 3 years old) and adults (3 – 5 years old) require a vivarium. They are not suitable for housing in the seemingly ever popular plastic tub (RUB’s). As neonates they can be kept in small arboreal set ups and at a push providing that you can set up sufficient perches of varying height then a plastic tub may suffice for their first six months but after that they are going to need a vivarium and progress up in size as they grow. When they are 6 months old I transfer mine to a Herptek 2 foot square cube, furnished with perches and a hide box at ground level.

By adulthood I keep them in a vivarium that is at least 5 feet long by 2 feet high and 2 feet deep – with sturdy perches across the length of the vivarium. They do not need an elaborately decorated vivarium and if you spend time setting up fake plants be sure to fix them well as they will be destroyed in the night after they have finished their nocturnal wanderings. For substrate I use newspaper. A hide box is an essential item as is a water bowl that is heavy enough not to be turned over.

Temperature and Humidity requirements

This is an area where new keepers of Sanzinia generally get it wrong. It’s another problem that when you think of Madagascar you generally think tropical, hot and humid all year round. This leads to Sanzinia being kept at temperatures that are too high and in too humid conditions. This is not the climate of Madagascar; it does not stay at 95 degrees and 90% humidity day in day out. For day to day maintenance this species is extremely hardy and forgiving of their keeper’s lack of knowledge, they will still feed, thrive and shed well but if breeding is in your plans then keeping them too hot will put a stop to any successful breeding.

So the daily temperatures are: Ambient Day Time High (DTH) 75- 8o degrees Fahrenheit with a hot spot of 85 degrees. Night Time Low (NTL) 65 – 70 degrees with hot spot of 75 degrees. I maintain my adults at these temps between April and October. Breeding temperatures are covered later under in the breeding section.

For humidity I leave a large water dish in the vivarium and humidity needs to be no more than 60% or thereabouts for the April to October period. High humidity and daily misting is not necessary. Sanzinia will drink from a water bowl without any problem.

As I say they are very hardy boas and if you get it wrong it won’t have any detrimental affect upon them it will just put any breeding plans to an immediate halt.

Feeding

The second most common mistake made with Sanzinia is with regard to what we expect them to eat.

Adults and Sub adults don’t each as much as you would expect. If you are used to ‘’power feeding’’ your snakes and expect them to eat every 5-7 days then you will become frustrated with Sanzinia.

As adults males eat less than females. An adult male will eat a large rat every 2-3 weeks from April to breeding season begins. Sometimes they will want more and again by observation you will know when this is as they will appear in hunting mode at dusk. But they will fast for most of the breeding season and some will fast for 6-7 months per year whether they are being cycled for breeding or not. An obese male is not a healthy male and will make a poor breeder.

Females require more and will eat approximately twice as much as a male providing they are not gravid in which case they will cease feeding altogether until the neonates are born. If offered food when gravid they will sometimes strike, constrict then release the food. This is a good sign.

Breeding

Here we go...this is what I get asked about the most. ''How do I breed my MTB's''

Sanzinia have a reputation for being difficult to impossible to breed. It is true that they are not as commonly bred as other species but this can be attributed predominantly to two reasons, firstly they are relatively uncommon in collections (due to lack of breeding) and secondly in my experience females breed bi-annually and it takes some nerve and considerable patience on behalf of the keeper to successfully breed them.

Sanzinia will actually mate with ease, at any time of the year at any temperature at any time of day and whatever condition they are in. This is the source of much excitement for owners of Sanzinia as they see mating and conclude that they will soon have neonate Sanzinia. Nothing could be farther from the truth. They mate seemingly for ‘’fun’’. Simply pair a male and a female and mating will soon begin. They mate more than any other Boa or Python species I have ever kept. Successful mating is entirely different and as there is not a great deal of breeding information to help the potential breeder here is my strategy. Although it is a work in progress and I’m sure over the coming years it will be improved and refined as my knowledge increases, it has never the less served me well and allowed me to witness many births of Sanzinia over the last few years.

Sexual maturity

Females are generally sexually mature and of sufficient size and weight to begin breeding trials at 4 years. I have bred females at 3 years and the results were not successful with all infertile ova being produced. As I have previously stated I believe Sanzinia are at best bi-annual breeders.

I have had females breed annually but the results were again poor with the 1^st year yielding live healthy neonates only to be followed with either all slugs or only 2 or 3 small neonates the next.

Males mature much sooner and 3 years is when I begin to use males for breeding.

Temperature Cycling

This is the part that requires nerve on your part. Consider carefully before you embark on this cycling regime as if you are unable to spend time observing your animals or they are not in optimum condition you may be initiating health problems including severe periods of fasting (up to a year) or encourage respiratory issues. In other words don’t just cycle your animals and walk away and let them get on with it, they require your attention, monitor and observe them; they will let you know whether to continue or to cease cycling. I stress again this is my strategy, detailed here for consideration, you are responsible for your animals and their health and well being so if you are in any doubt that you can deal with potential issues or devote the necessary time then simply don’t embark on temperature cycling and breeding trials.

A week before the end of October I begin to drop the temperatures. Over the following 2 weeks I gradually drop the DTH to 70 and the NTL to 60 degrees F. I maintain these temperatures until the last week of December at which point I drop the NTL down to 53 – 55 degrees F.

From 1^st January I begin to increase the temps back up and by the end of January they are in their normal range again. But then I add in a basking spot that is 95-100 Degrees F. This basking spot is important and gravid females will bask for several weeks and their body temperature when measured with a non contact laser thermometer will reach in excess of 100 degrees F. Your vivarium such be designed that you can still create a thermal gradient but due to the basking spot that a gravid female requires the ambient temperature will undoubtedly increase. Mine increases up to 85 degrees F.

Only animals that are in optimum condition should be cycled.

Pairing, Ovulation and Gravid females

I maintain my Sanzinia separately unless they are in breeding trials. I introduce the male in late November to the female’s vivarium. I have found that male combat is sometimes beneficial and sometimes it is not necessary. I have had equal success with both methods and I believe that it is down to the personal ‘’preferences’’ of the Sanzinia. If you are going to use male combat then introduce both males to the female enclosure. Combat will begin very soon after introduction. It is more of a wrestling match and they will chase each other around the vivarium. I have never witnessed any true aggression between males, for example them biting each other but it is only prudent to never leave them unattended for too long and to keep a close eye on them. After a day or so remove the loser and leave the victor (irrespective of the actual result you decide who the winner is)

Mating will then begin soon after, it can be at any time of day but usually occurs at night in a hide box. Repeated mating will go on until you separate the pair which I do towards the end of February or soon after I witness Ovulation.

Mating - a successful ''lock'' doesn't mean successful mating

Ovulation

Green phase female showing her dark green gravid colouration

You may be lucky enough to witness Ovulation but the female will spend most of her time pre ovulation in a hide box and I don’t like to disturb her too often. She will need to feel secure. There are a few indicators that the female is gravid. Firstly she will cease feeding. She will also begin to darken significantly and show her gravid colouration. These are 2 good indicators that your breeding is going to plan. She will also spend a good portion of her time soaking so once I see her colour change I provide a large water tray for her. She will spend a lot of her night time soaking with just her nostril protruding from the water. During the day she will bask and her body temperature will increase to 100 degrees F or more.

All of this however still does not mean you will be getting viable neonates. All of this is possible and then a clutch of infertile orange ova are delivered (also referred to as a Slug). This happens and I believe this is due to 2 reasons, firstly the female did not have sufficient fat reserves to complete the process and secondly the male was not cooled enough to enable him to produce viable sperm.

The female will continue with her daily routine and maintain her gravid colouration until she delivers the clutch.

My females will normally deliver their litter in July. I watch them carefully from the beginning of July. As they approach the point of delivery they become very active roaming around the vivarium from dusk onwards and they always deliver at night.

Of note I have found that it is important to get the female to accept a small meal before she goes into her post lay shed. I find that if she feeds before this shed then she will feed with gusto after shedding and this will help her regain lost wait sooner. Females that don’t eat before the shed can take some time to get feeding again.

If it all goes to plan - live healthy neonates

If it doesn't go to plan - infertile ova

Neonates

If all goes to plan you will get a nice healthy litter of neonate Sanzinia in July.

They are feisty when born and happy to strike at anything that moves. They shed in the 1^st 24 hours some shed within an hour or two of being born. I take advantage of their striking and I offer all neonate Sanzinia their first meal immediately after their 1^st shed and 80% plus of them will readily take a defrosted fuzzy mouse that has been thoroughly warmed through. They soon calm down and stop striking at anything that moves and if you have them established at feeding then you will have no problem raising them

1 day old green phase starting his 1st meal

I house them all separately in small enclosures with a small hide box and a perch. They will spend the days in the hide box and take to their perch in the evenings which is when I feed them.

Occasionally I have difficult feeders and I find that to get them going feed at night with no light and heat the head of a fuzzy mouse in hot water and a strike will usually follow. Once they strike don’t move ! If they detect movement they will release and you have to start again.

My Green Phase Sanzinia are born red (or brownish red) with white dorsal spots on chocolate brown saddle and colour change begins at about 18 months of age when the red becomes lime green.

Summary

Sanzinia are hardy snakes and thrive in captivity. I do not consider them suitable for beginners and experience with other boids and particularly arboreal boas is desirable.

They can look viscous animals, jaw lines filled with thermal detection pits, numerous sharp teeth they are certainly equipped to inflict a painful bite – but very rarely do. They are generally calm and don’t mind being handled unless they have just eaten in which case they should be left alone for 3 days.

They don’t grow too big, are undemanding in terms of day to day environmental conditions and feeding so I do consider them an excellent species to keep for those who have experience of other boids and are looking to move onto something that little bit rarer and more challenging to breed.

They are however strong boas and can hold onto you with some pretty amazing force and this must not be forgotten. Treat them with respect.

I hope they are bred more often in the future by other owners and as our understanding of them improves that they begin to feature more in collections.

If other Sanzinia owners or breeders would like to comment or add to any of the above then I would be glad to hear from you. The pooling and sharing of knowledge and experience should lead to more of these beautiful boas being produced and featuring in collections.

Hope you found the above interesting and helpful

Best Regards

Rod Foster